Margarita machine rentals
DIY Margarita Machine
Make your own margarita machine with a garbage disposal
Here is another do it yourself margarita machine. These things are popping up all over the internet. The question is: how do you feel about drinking from a garbarge disposal. Are the internal parts made with human consumption in mind? Are the materials used in construction "food grade"? Will any internal disposal parts break down releasing toxins or rust? What about the PVC piping used? The glue that holds it together? How do you sanitize it after use? It is cheap but we have found in our experience the cheap is rarely good and good is rarely cheap. If you are handy, daring, and have some time on your hands you may want to build one. We take no reponsibility for any harmful results should you decide to try and build one of these things.
To bypass all this work only to end up with something that a lot of your friends will question your sanity for building, just call Beverage Brothers at 818-260-9215 or click on this link to rent a commercial grade, sanitary margarita machine.
1/2 hp garbage disposal (yes, you read that correctly) choose stainless over galvanized
4 gallon soup/stock pot .
Materials for enclosure, this one took a hair over a 1/2 sheet of OSB and some 2x2
PVC primer and adhesive
Outlet box, switch and coverplate
Small tub of plumber's putty
Extension cord (optional depending on model of disposer)
The tricky part comes next. The hardware store didn't have exactly what was desired so several concessions and changes to initial plan to get the functionality wanted. That said, here's the pieces used. All pipe dimensions refer to inner diameters unless otherwise specified.
1.5" rubber union x1(with hose clamps)
1" PVC pipe (about 2')
1" tee fitting x1
1" 90 degree elbow x2
1" 45 degree elbow x1
1" to 1/2" reducing insert x1
1/2" PVC pipe ( 1' )
1/2" ball valve
1/2" 90 degree elbow
The pieces to change would be to eliminate all of the 1/2" stuff and just limit the flow at the very end of the spout with the reducing insert but the hardware store was out of 1" ball valve. Using that reduction insert where it is has a tendency to cause an accumulation of crushed ice which sometimes causes a blockage. Will be rebuilding that section of pipe before too long.
The grand total comes in just under $100 with ~70% being the disposal, ~20% being the pvc elements, and the final ~10% the electrical connections.
Disassemble the disposal's mounting bits. In particular we'll be dealing with the section that in ordinary circumstances would be the drain in the sink. Center the drain flange on the bottom of the stock pot and mark for cutting. Using a rotary tool and cut-off discs first score the line once around before committing to the full depth cut. Your result should look something like the picture at left.
Take this time to perform a test fit of the flange into the hole.
When the fit is snug, but not forced, swap your cutting tool for a grinding wheel. Grind the cut edge paying attention mostly to the inner surface of the pot. This area is where the disposal to pot seal will take place so be sure to remove any burrs, etc.
Assembling the mounting flange. Roll out a length of plumbers putty long enough to wrap around the flange and gently insert the flange through the hole. Press firmly into place and flip the pot bottom side up and install the mount. Once that is complete it should look similar to this:
Note: This picture shows the plumbers putty after the flange is tightened. Squeeze-out is best left alone until the last possible moment. It will continue to push out excess putty for some time and is much easier to remove as a large piece.
Step 3 (optional):
Time to streamline the pot by removing the handles. Be careful not to gouge the pot!
The upper seal and splashback preventer thingy now need a bit of attention. The rubber portion must be retained to allow a for a watertight seal. However the flow inhibiting effects of the seal are undesired. Out with the trusty razor blade. Here's a before and after look for comparison:
Mate the pot and disposal together.
Also in place in the above picture is the beginnings of the plumbing. Specifically the rubber union and the tee fitting. Measure carefully, perform a test fit and plumb the return line with exception of the 45 degree piece. That piece is intended to to divert the return liquid such that it does not cause excessive splashing in the mixing chamber and assists in the rotational flow created by the spinning disposal. It is important to verify said direction before gluing it on . The assembled return line should look something like this:
Visible above, and more clearly below, is the pot lid with a relief cut to allow the return line to pass through it. marked by eyeball and cut it with the angle grinder.
It's now time for the case. This is where the particulars of your choices in parts and the choice of case materials comes into play.. Example used 2x2 stock for the standoffs in the base because the type of electrical connection the disposal had required it. The disposal is directly wired to a common household light switch with a 16' extension cord leading out of the case. The case also features heavy-duty folding handles to make carrying easier.
Once the case is assembled, install and affix the internals, including the disposal. Mark the face of the case for the hole necessary for the spout. Drill the hole, glue up an overlong pipe leading out of the case and do the final assembly of the case. Fine tune the installation, add insulation etc. By carefully measuring and installing the ball valve outside the case you can tightly pinch the fittings together on either side of the case which had the effect of being a second mount point.
The finished product doesn't look like much but what so you expect for under $100.00 We take no reponsibility for any harmful results should you decide to try and build one of these things.
If you want to have a commercial grade (not home made) margarita machine delivered to your door just click this link or call Beverage Brothers at 818-260-9215